Eyeshadow

A definitive eye makeup guide for hooded eyelids

How to make your eyeshadow and eyeliners work for your eye shape
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Does your eyeshadow tend to do a disappearing act?

One minute it's there, applied and pretty, but as soon as you open your eye, it's nowhere to be seen?

If this is the case, chances are you have hooded eyelids.

Don't worry, your eyes are still the same beautiful window to the soul they've always been, it just means you have an extra fold of skin that covers your crease.

The good news is you're an ideal candidate for a smokey eye. "This look is quicker to create as there is a smaller area to blend out," says celebrity makeup artist, Naoko Scintu.

But the not-so-good news is "too much eyeshadow can make the eyes look small", and you may find feline flicks a bit trickier to nail.

Not to worry though, because with just a few application tricks and tweaks, you can learn to make your makeup work for your eye shape...

MAKE USE OF YOUR BOTTOM EYELIDS

If you struggle to make a statement with your top eyelids, try bringing your colour down below.

"My overall tip for hooded eyes is to add lots of light to the inner corner and under the lower lash line from the mid-point to inner corner", says celebrity makeup artist, Emma White Turle.

Start by adding your bold statement colour to the outer corner lower lid, then stop halfway and switch to a highlighting shade to take it to the inner corner. "This can be flesh tone highlighter or a paler shade of the colour you love," says Emma.

This technique will give the illusion of bigger eyes and make the colour you're using pop without going to heavy on the top lids.

WING IT OUT

As the centre of the eyelid tends to disappear with hooded eyes, applying the majority of your eyeshadow in this area tends to go to waste.

Instead, "keep the shadow more on the outer corners of the eyes to avoid them looking smaller", says Naoko.

When using dark eyeshadows, Emma says to "keep it to the lower part of your brow bone and top of the crease as this will create the illusion of depth."

TRY TIGHTLINING

Eyeliner is the Achilles heel of the hooded eyelid. Too much and the eyes can look smaller, and smudging is often inescapable.

"Find one that dries quickly and practice," says Emma. "I prefer a gel liner with a fine thin brush."

For this reason, tightlining is a great technique to learn. "Tightlining is the technique of filling your upper lash water line with eyeliner", says Emma. "Try it with a mirror on a table and you sitting looking down into it."

Because the liner will be sitting right at the base of your lashes, you'll also get the extra benefit of fuller-looking lashes.

If you're still determined to get your feline flick right, celebrity makeup artist, Mary Wiles, says it IS possible, "you just have to tweak it and it's easier to do it with an open eye."

Apply your liner close to the lash line for the inner corner and mid-section, then open the eye to create the flick from the outer corner and join the two sections together.

CREATE YOUR OWN CREASE

As the main trait of hooded eyes is little to no crease at all, why not create your own?

You can do this by applying completely contrasting colours; one to the socket and the other underneath the brow bone.

"Apply a darker shade to the socket and generally use a matte shadow as this will push back and create more depth to the socket, [to create a crease] and make the eye appear bigger," says Mary.

Then take a lighter shade above your faux crease, blending to the brow bone. "Keep it to just underneath the outer part of the eyebrow itself", says Emma.

When creating a smokey eye, employ a similar method, but blend your darker shade out towards the outer corner for more of a Jennifer Lawrence-esque look.

PICK THE RIGHT PRODUCTS

Every gal with hooded eyelids needs a smudge-proof liner and mascara in her life, and Naoko says to always go for waterproof formulas.

Tarte's Clay Pot Waterproof Shadow Liner (£19) is a goodie for those who prefer a pot, or if you're more of the draw-and-go kind, you can't go wrong with Eyeko Sport Waterproof Eyeliner (£16).

She also offers this excellent smudge-proof liner tip: "Powder over the eyeliner after applying it so it doesn't move."

As for the lashes, here's our edit of the best waterproof mascaras.

For eyeshadow, Mary says mattes are your best bet for creating depth. She also implores you to use a good eye base beforehand. She recommends: Eyeshadow Primer Potion , £17.50, Urban Decay and La Base Paupieres Pro Long Wear Eyeshadow Base , £21.50, Lancome.

And last but not least, Emma says investing in good brushes for blending is key.

Check out our edit of the best makeup brushes here:

19 best makeup brushes ever, reviewed by GLAMOUR editors
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